Demolition Derby
Payouts & Rules
- Saturday, September 23rd -
Payouts & Rules
- Saturday, September 23rd -
Lincoln County Fair Tennessee Demolition Derby
Saturday Night, September 23rd, 2023
$100 Entry Fee Per Car
$10 Pit Pass
(Everyone pays gate admission)
Payouts:
1st - $5000
2nd - $2500
3rd - $1000
4th - $500
Pays $500 a car to win the heats
Mad dog $500
2023 Dixon Stock Rules
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T! Or you will be loaded, your choice!
- NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers.
- DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car.
- Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- There is no working on or storing cars in the camping area. All cars will be worked on and kept in the pit area. No work will be performed on cars in an enclosed tent or enclosure of any kind. Pop up tents are welcome with max of 2 sides.
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
BODY:
- No sedagons, ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding. - Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. After inspection you may tuck trunk to the floor with one single 90* bend.
- Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added.
- All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)
or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk. You may also use angle no longer than 2” long and a single ½” bolt to hold hoods shut.
-Door seams may have no more than 6” of weld, vertical seam only. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on vertical seams only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
BODYMOUNTS:
-You may have upto a 6” core support spacer (it may not be welded if metal)
- If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts.
-Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM! Exception, You may change a total of 6 body bolts out, with 5/8"x 30" long threaded rod max with 3 nuts, 3- 5/8 store bought washers and 3-5”x5” 1/4" thick plates per rod. Must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have 1 inch rubber or metal spacer no larger than stock body pucks and all bottom nuts must be inside frame. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod. Rusted out body bolts may be removed and replaced with a single strand of #9 wire.
- No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
FRAMES:
- You may dimple your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
- NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames
-At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down.
- Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
- No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge.
- You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
- You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
- You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
- You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
- All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
- Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
- Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it's place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
- Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
- 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to tow package and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS.
-98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVETRAIN:
- ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, no aftermarket bell housings, no trans brace, no mid plates, OEM transmission case only )
-you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, but it must be mounted to the car with OEM style mounts.
-no engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle
- Any axle but must be hung with factory type control arms
- Rear end brace will be allowed.
-Pinion brake is ok
- You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT:
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
- Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
- You may hardnose front and rear bumpers if desired, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics). You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to an inch in front of the core support mount you may also be hard nosed.
Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front.
- Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
-Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.
- BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
-Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only. Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!!
INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (1 re-inspect)
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
** Don’t look for gray areas and don’t get creative, call with questions to save on arguing during inspection. For any questions call or text Chad Cowley 931-703-6623.
1st - $5000
2nd - $2500
3rd - $1000
4th - $500
Pays $500 a car to win the heats
Mad dog $500
2023 Dixon Stock Rules
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T! Or you will be loaded, your choice!
- NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers.
- DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car.
- Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- There is no working on or storing cars in the camping area. All cars will be worked on and kept in the pit area. No work will be performed on cars in an enclosed tent or enclosure of any kind. Pop up tents are welcome with max of 2 sides.
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seat belt, eye protection and steering wheel on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- This is not a team event; team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
BODY:
- No sedagons, ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding. - Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. After inspection you may tuck trunk to the floor with one single 90* bend.
- Wagons ONLY if you remove your tail gate may have 6 places of wire 2 strands max must be behind axle sheet metal to sheet metal only roof to floor.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added.
- All cars competing must have a hood on at all times to run.
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 6 places, 2 strands of #9 wire (Sheet metal to sheet metal only)
or 6 locations using ½ bolts with store bought washers through the drip rail in the trunk. You may also use angle no longer than 2” long and a single ½” bolt to hold hoods shut.
-Door seams may have no more than 6” of weld, vertical seam only. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on vertical seams only. 2” x 1/4” strap.
BODYMOUNTS:
-You may have upto a 6” core support spacer (it may not be welded if metal)
- If you choose to change your core support mounts with 2 of your threaded rods, you get 3 plates 1/4x 5”x 5” max, 7- 5/8 nuts ,7 -3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY. If core support bolts are changed, this will count for 2 of your 6 mounts.
-Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM! Exception, You may change a total of 6 body bolts out, with 5/8"x 30" long threaded rod max with 3 nuts, 3- 5/8 store bought washers and 3-5”x5” 1/4" thick plates per rod. Must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have 1 inch rubber or metal spacer no larger than stock body pucks and all bottom nuts must be inside frame. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod. Rusted out body bolts may be removed and replaced with a single strand of #9 wire.
- No attaching body bolts to any part of the cage/roll over bar.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
FRAMES:
- You may dimple your rear frame rails only to achieve the frame to roll
- NO welding, bolting, wiring or adding any material/substance to strengthen frames
-At Inspectors discretion frames will be drilled, wire wheeled or wiped down.
- Absolutely not painting or spraying any material on frames or welds. Cars will not be inspected.
- No cold bending frames at all!! All frames will be checked with a straight edge.
- All cars get 4 - 4x4 x 1/4 patch plates
- Can wire in 4 locations frame to cage with #9 wire
- You may weld 2 straps per upper A-Arm 2”x2” to maintain ride height.
- You may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring.
- You may use store bought spring spacers (no homemade spacers or spacers on top of the springs)
- You may use a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end. Leaf spring cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps per spring stack.
- All suspension and steering must remain stock ( unless a modification is stated ).
- Aftermarket steering columns and shafts are allowed. These components may not strength car in anyway at anytime.
- Tie rods maybe reinforced in only 1 of the following 2 ways; 1) sleeve maybe discarded and pipe/solid rod tapped can be put in it's place. 2) Factory sleeve and ends maybe welded and reinforced with steel. Tie rod ends must be factory ends and fit the spindle and drag link without reaming the holes larger. A store bought washer maybe placed over the steam of the tie rod and welded.
- Upper A arms maybe interchanged as long as there able to be bolted on. You may cut/ trim to make fit but no welding on brackets etc. A arm must bolt on factory brackets of frame, no drilling new holes or enlarging existing holes. Example: 80-91 box ford a arms being installed on a 98-02. Cut the mounting bar out and trim the edges of a arms to get height.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock. You may shorten but max 2” overlap.
- 98 up watt links conversion will be allowed only in the following way!! Upper trailing arm brackets must be bolted in. They must be 2 separate brackets, may not be larger than 6”x 12”x 3/8” thick max. 4- 5/8 bolts, nuts and 8 washers per bracket. Brackets may only be bolted to tow package and bolts may not stick thru body. Brackets may not strength frame or body. NO WELDING AT ALL OF UPPER BRACKETS.
-98 up watt links LOWER BRACKET Conversion. Only 1 way will be allowed to mount lower trailing arm bracket. 1 piece of square tube 3”x 3”x 3/8”x 3” long max per side of frame maybe used. Cut the square tube to make a C channel. It must be welded to the inboard of the frame at the point you want your trailing arm mounted. Drill your hole thru the tube and only 1 thickness of the frame. Bolt your arm into place. No other bolts will be allowed to mount this bracket. No factory mounting brackets will be allowed to mount the trailing arms.
DRIVETRAIN:
- ANY drive train & transmission (manual transmissions allowed, no aftermarket bell housings, no trans brace, no mid plates, OEM transmission case only )
-you may run a basic front plate and lower engine cradle with pulley protector, but it must be mounted to the car with OEM style mounts.
-no engine chains, unless approved with pictures
Rear axle
- Any axle but must be hung with factory type control arms
- Rear end brace will be allowed.
-Pinion brake is ok
- You may run 3/8 chain around rear end back to the frame with only each end of the chain welded back to the frame for ride height control. Any extra chain links or weld on the frame will cause you to run working suspension.
DRIVERS COMPARTMENT:
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar, but bar and fuel cell/tank must be 4 inches from rear sheet metal. See below for mounting fuel tank/ cell to floor.
- Halo bar allowed is allowed, 2-1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof. The halo bar may only be attached to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and batteries must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
- You may hardnose front and rear bumpers if desired, but no shortening rear frame. Follow rules below if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below). Bumper brackets (in factory location) maybe weld continuously to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper only. In addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics). You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to an inch in front of the core support mount you may also be hard nosed.
Call with special cars to mount bumper legally. Rear brackets on rear and front brackets on front.
- Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
-Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.
- BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper
- Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-If your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big.
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires/ no sharp ends.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No dual tires.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
-Inner bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. 1 inch outer lip ring allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only. Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed. If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!!
INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (1 re-inspect)
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
** Don’t look for gray areas and don’t get creative, call with questions to save on arguing during inspection. For any questions call or text Chad Cowley 931-703-6623.